Why October, not December
Most winter breakdowns are not caused by winter. They are caused by something that was already tired in September, and the cold is what finally pushes it over. A weak battery, a soft tire, a reservoir of summer washer fluid: all of it works fine at 50 degrees and fails at 5. Do the checks now and you get to fix things on your own schedule instead of in a parking lot at Lindale on a January evening.
None of this needs tools beyond a tire gauge and a penny. Set aside ten minutes, pop the hood, and go down the list.
The checklist
- Battery age. Look for a date sticker on the battery case, usually a month and year or a code like 10/22. Most car batteries last somewhere around three to five years, and Iowa winters are hard on them because cold slows the chemistry that makes cranking power while thick oil makes the engine harder to turn. If yours is past four winters, or the engine has sounded slow to start on cool mornings, have it load tested. Most parts stores will test one for free. While you are there, look at the terminals: white or green crust on the clamps is worth cleaning off.
- Tire pressure. Tires lose roughly one psi for every ten degrees the air cools, so a tire set in August can be several pounds low by November without a leak. Check them cold, before you drive, and set them to the number on the sticker inside the driver's door, not the maximum printed on the sidewall. Low tires are often why the dashboard tire light comes on the first cold morning.
- Tread depth. Put a penny into a groove with Lincoln's head down. If you can see the top of his head, you are at 2/32 of an inch, which is worn out. For snow and slush you want more than that: try a quarter the same way, and if you can see the top of Washington's head, you are under 4/32 and the tires will struggle in snow. Check the inside and outside edges too, not just the middle.
- Coolant. With the engine cold, find the plastic overflow reservoir and check that the level sits between the marks. Never open the radiator cap on a warm engine. Coolant is what keeps the engine from freezing as well as overheating, and a standard 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water protects to around 34 below. If the level keeps dropping between checks, that is a leak worth finding before it gets cold.
- Washer fluid. Summer fluid, or plain water, freezes in the lines and the reservoir. Run the tank low and refill with a winter blend rated for well below zero. Iowa roads in winter are covered in salt spray, and you will go through more fluid in a week of slush than in a month of summer.
- Wiper blades. Run them with fluid and watch. Streaks, skipping, or a blade that chatters across the glass means the rubber has hardened. Blades are cheap and easy to replace yourself, and a clear windshield matters more in a snowstorm than at any other time of year.
- Engine oil. Check the level and when the next change is due. If it falls in November or December, consider doing it now, so the engine goes into winter on fresh oil. Use the viscosity your manual specifies (most newer cars call for a 0W oil), because the first number is about how well it flows on a cold start. Full synthetic flows better in the cold than conventional oil, which is one reason it is all we use. Our guide on how to check your oil walks through reading the dipstick.
- Cabin air filter. This one surprises people. A clogged cabin filter cuts the airflow through the vents, and in winter that means a defroster that takes much longer to clear the glass. If yours has not been changed in a year, look at it. The difference is explained in engine air filter vs cabin air filter.
- Lights. Walk around the car with the headlights, brake lights, and turn signals on. You need them sooner now that it is dark by six, and a dirty or yellowed headlight lens throws much less light than you think.
- A winter kit in the trunk. An ice scraper and brush, a blanket, gloves and a hat, a flashlight, jumper cables, a phone charger, a small shovel, and a bag of sand or cat litter for traction. Keep the gas tank at least half full through the winter as well: it gives you heat if you are stuck, and it keeps you from running dry in a long backup on I-380.
Block heaters, if you have one
Plenty of trucks and some cars sold in Iowa come with an engine block heater, a plug tucked behind the grille or under the hood. If yours has one, find the cord now and check it for cracks or chewed insulation before you plug it in. On the coldest mornings it makes starting easier on the battery and on the engine. Your owner's manual will say whether the vehicle has one and how long to run it before you drive.
What to do with what you find
Most of the list is either fine or a five-dollar fix. Tire pressure, washer fluid, and wiper blades you can handle in the driveway. A battery that fails a test or tires under 4/32 are worth booking with a shop you trust before the first snow, not after.
If you would rather not stand in the driveway with a penny, a lot of this is part of every oil change we do. While we are under the hood we check the battery terminals and date, coolant and washer fluid, tire pressure and tread, wipers, lights, and both air filters. We set the tires to the door placard, fill the washer fluid, and write down everything else on your service record so you know what needs attention. We do not do repairs and we do not sell them, so the record is information rather than a quote. The full list is in the FAQ, and the price is on the pricing page.
We come to homes and workplaces in Cedar Rapids, Marion, Hiawatha, and Robins on weekdays between 9am and 5pm. You do not need to be outside with us: leave the keys, and the car is done when you come back to it.